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For our Spring 2010 photo shoot, the Crew team headed to the South West of France for the late summer sunshine of the Côte Basque and the unspoilt delights of the Béarn region. The deserted beaches, delightfully timeless countryside and sleepy French towns provided the perfect backdrop of this season’s collection.
Biarritz was once synonymous with the Crown heads of Europe, the playground of Edward and Mrs Simpson. It now combines a relaxed atmosphere of Parisian ‘Grand Dames’ and the coolest of surfers, like a mixture of oysters and beer or champagne and kettle chips, it’s kind of wrong, but it just works so well.
Shooting in the medieval splendours of the Basque capital of Bayonne with its steep cobbled streets, hidden squares and ancient bridges, stop for a beer or a glass of wine and wonder if the last five centuries really happened.
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Where the Crew team stayedThe Crew team stayed at an 18th century farm house, a few kilometres from the spa town of Salies de Bearn; Salies is a town, built over a salt water reservoir, its invigorating warm salty waters are taken regularly as a palliative treatment for all sorts of muscular ailments. The ten euro entry fee must be one of the best spa bargains in Europe. Turning into a long winding lane you will find Maysounabe, an 18th century farm house set in large grounds and romantic gardens, with the late flowering summer jasmine hanging like heavy eyelids over the windows of the house. Built in the late 18th century it was abandoned after the war until discovered by an intrepid English couple Giles and Sheila Moore. They had been out walking when they stumbled upon the house, empty and unloved for over thirty years. Climbing through one of the windows they fell under a spell. They bought and restored the house to its former glory. After ten happy years the 2.6 hectares became a little too much and they reluctantly decided to sell the house. Andrew Downs and Jeffrey Wilkins moved in full time in 2000 and started a production company, welcoming magazines and photographic teams from all over the world. They also rent the house as a holiday let during the summer months. Visit www.jamesenglishfrance.com to find out more.
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Our pick of where to stay...Hotel du Palais, once the holiday home of the Empress Eugénie, now the playground of the rich and richer, dine next to a member of the Bourbon family, a New York Banker or an Oil Oligarch, the opulent surroundings and Imperial elegance make this a world class destination. The huge semi-circular dining room overlooking the Atlantic, serves modern French cuisine, but dining with 80ft breakers crashing in front of you, it’s not just the food that will take your breath away. 10 out 10 for a romantic weekend break. www.hotel-du-palais.com Hotel Windsor. Named after its namesake the Duke of Windsor, it was remodelled in the 1970’s. Like most of its contemporaries its does not have the prettiest of faces, it does however command the most impressive views of theBay of Biscay and the Atlantic Ocean. With large rooms and balconies, it runs parallel to the Grand Plage, the most central beach of Biarritz. All the conveniences of being central to town, bars, clubs, restaurants, but still with the whoosh and crash of the breakers lulling you to sleep. Great value, just ignore the concrete and concentrate on the ocean.
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La Closerie du Guilhat B&B is an 18th century house, the former home of the botanist Despou. His specimen garden now houses immense examples of magnolia, azalea and rhododendron, along with some gigantic red woods, all framed with a backdrop of the Pyrenees. The elegant Madam Marie-Christine Potiron makes you feel at home at once. Basic yet charming bedrooms. During the chillier times of year the dining room with its huge fireplace is filled with the aroma of oak wood smoke and thick black coffee. The homemade confiture and fresh bread making a great start to any day. www.sawdays.co.uk Book a Gîte. As varied as you like, from a mini château to a converted pig shed, you can choose accommodation that best fits you and your family. Shop in charming local markets, utilise your rusty French on the owner of the corner boulangerie, drink delicious red wine and think how to find a way of ditching the rat race and never return home. Gîtes can give you a genuine taste of rural France. www.holiday-lets.co.uk
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Where to Eat... Salon du Thé, Rue de l’Empress Eugénie. A true taste of old world charm, waitresses with white gloves and black dresses. Crystal chandeliers, silver teapots and home made chocolate. Try the mouse de chocolat, it really should be banned by law – Yum! but beware, it closes for lunch. Only in France! Hanging out with the surfers at Le Surfing, situated over looking the beach of the same name. Serving a regional menu, confit de canard, moules, steak as rare as you dare, great fries and hearty portions. Blue Cargo, voted best bar in France by French GQ. This super cool bar/restaurant nestles into the beach at Ilbarritz. Dine on fresh fish, simply but impeccably prepared by the chef. The service is attentive, but unobtrusive, and at 1am (during the season) the tables are moved back and you can party until dawn. www.bluecargo.frLa Belle Auberge, Castagnede. This renowned restaurant draws clientele from way beyond the tiny hamlet of Castagnede. Family run, its daily menus are impeccably produced. Duck, veal, home cured hams, oysters, all appear on the 13 euro four course menu, amazing value. This is now a rare example of fine, home produced food, for which France was so famous, but now, unfortunately, are so “difficle” to find. For those true carnivores amongst you, don’t miss the Tordedos Rossini, a thick slap of beef with a slice of fresh duck liver (fois frais) served with fries cooked with duck fat (very 1970’s for those of us who never see a true chip any longer) along side a lettuce salad dressed with a delicious sharp lemon vinaigrette, known locally as Monsieur Citron. On the banks of the Gave do Oloron nestling at the foot of the town of Sauveterre du Bearn, there is a tiny tea room, Sally’s, run by the delightful Sally. Home made scones, fresh Victoria sponges, refreshing salads. If this was in the UK, in such a delightful spot, you would need to wait for hours, but in the sleepy Bearn all you need to do is show up and enjoy. Walking back up the winding path to the medieval church will help burn some of those calories.
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What to do...
Surfing and Skiing, unique Southwest of France! There are only a handful of places in the whole world where you can be surfing one day and skiing the next and South West France is one of them. Just 3 hours away from the coast lies the Hautes Pyrénées, with its numerous ski stations. Cauterets is one of the highest and loveliest, without a doubt. With the slopes at 2000m meters and a picturesque spa town with authentic restaurants and bars, there is something for everyone.
The Côte Basque and the Côte Landaise have the best surf in Europe and is ranked world class, making them a mecca to water sports fans. However, you don’t need to be an adrenalin junkie to appreciate the action. St Jean de Luz, is a stunning Basque town which has gorgeous boutique shopping and seafood restaurants. Here you can treat the whole family to a Hawaiian canoe trip around the bay Hawaii 5O style!! Whatever you want to turn your hand to, you will find it here.
Fishing Buy a permit in one of the local towns, follow a rusty ancient Citroën down one of many lanes leading to edge of the Gave de Pau or the Gave de Mauléon. You will find yourself on the banks of the fast flowing shallow rivers or gaves that the Béarn is famous for. By far the best salmon and trout fishing in France. Find yourself on deserted banks, the salmon jumping and dancing, the only sound the running clear mountain water of the snow melt, that gives the water an aqua marine tinge – absolutely world class.
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Yoga in South West FranceDenise Spencer is the dynamic, but centered and calm influence behind Vivre-en-Yoga. Offering Hatha yoga courses in relaxed and peaceful surroundings (See Where to Stay - Maysounabe) The on-site chef produces healthy, organic, vegetarian cuisine that will help detox and de-stress. The bi-lingual talents of Madam Spencer will help your mind, body and soul. And if the strains of yoga are not enough she can challenge your language skills by deducting the classes in French. Visit www.vivre-en-yoga.com for more details. RugbyOther than food, the major obsession of the South West is Rugby. The SW is the capital of rugby in France with its famous teams including Biarritz, Toulouse, Bayonne and Dax. January through to March you can ski, surf and then take in a Heineken Cup match against British and Irish opposition, before flying back to the UK from Biarritz. A sport’s enthusiasts dream. For more information on all the above activities please contact Benn or Amy at www.frenchfusion.com
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